MADE IN USA
In 2024, Tender moved home and production from Gloucestershire in the UK to Pennsylvania, in the USA. Rather than operate long-distance, new seasonal garments are sewn close to our new home. While the design and pattern cutting remain in-house, there is a particular character and personality to different countries’ production: making and designing in parallel, in the same location, seem to lead to products with more integrity and coherence.
One of the reasons that Tender’s clothes have their own special feel is the selection of machines used. Clothes sewn in the UK were largely constructed with feed-of-the-arm single-pass felled seams. In the new US factory these machines are not available, so garments are sewn with single-needle sewing machines, making seams that are slightly flatter and more elegant. On the other hand, as the seams are constructed with two sewing passes judged by eye, the stitch lines are not quite as even and regular, adding a slightly different humanity into them.
Clothes made in the USA have a woven label with a blue size number.
Scroll to view products sewn in the USA
TYPE 886 STOCK
The Tender Stock is based on an equestrian stock- the horse's hoof binding which evolved to become the modern tie.
TYPE 160 PLEAT POCKET BAGS
Legs are cut in one huge piece of fabric, with no side seams and no pockets, but the side is pulled into a large backwards-facing pleat, and stitched into place to form a side pocket.
TYPE 417 THREE QUARTER SLEEVE FROCK SHIRT
The Frock Shirt is a combination of a three-pocket work shirt and a tailored frock coat.
TYPE 931 SCOUT JACKET
Based on a Boy Scouts of America uniform jacket from the textiles collection at University of Wisconsin-Madison, the extra large collar can be worn up, down, or buttoned half way, tight to the neck.
TYPE 457 FROCK SHIRT
The Frock Shirt is a combination of a three-pocket work shirt and a tailored frock coat.
TYPE 401 PLEAT POCKET SHIRT
The Pleat Pocket Shirt is cut with a large front panel pleated into the yoke to form a large hand-warmer pocket.
TYPE 402 TWO BIRDS SHIRT
The Two Birds Shirt creates two pockets with one line of pocket stitching.
TYPE 808 RAKE HAT
The Rake Hat is worn at a raked angle, slightly on the side of the head, but is also the sort of cap which Tom Rakewell might have worn in Hogarth's etchings had he been born two centuries later.
TYPE 120 DART BACK TAPERED TROUSERS
Adapted from type 130 Tapered Jeans, Dart Back Tapered trousers have no yoke, but a pair of darts set into the waistband throws the shape from the waist into the seat.
TYPE 918 TWO:ONE BUTTERFLY JACKET
Unlike most Tender jackets, which have a straight cut front, the Two:One jacket has shaped lapels with a large belly, to use the tailor's term.
TYPE 471 PLASTRON SHIRT
A plastron is a chest covering which sits over a lower layer. The same term is used to describe a fencer's chest pad, an armoured breastplate, and a tortoise's belly.
TYPE 439 STOLE POCKET BUTTERFLY SHIRT
The Stole Pocket Butterfly shirt has long panel pockets sewn to the fronts and caught into the shoulder seam, recalling the embroidered liturgical vestments worn by Christian priests and bishops.
