
In 2024, Tender moved home and production from Gloucestershire in the UK to Pennsylvania, in the USA. Rather than operate long-distance, new seasonal garments are sewn close to our new home. While the design and pattern cutting remain in-house, there is a particular character and personality to different countries’ production: making and designing in parallel, in the same location, seem to lead to products with more integrity and coherence.
One of the reasons that Tender’s clothes have their own special feel is the selection of machines used. Clothes sewn in the UK were largely constructed with feed-of-the-arm single-pass felled seams. In the new US factory these machines are not available, so garments are sewn with single-needle sewing machines, making seams that are slightly flatter and more elegant. On the other hand, as the seams are constructed with two sewing passes judged by eye, the stitch lines are not quite as even and regular, adding a slightly different humanity into them.
Clothes made in the USA have a woven label with a blue size number.
Based on a Boy Scouts of America uniform jacket from the textiles collection at University of Wisconsin-Madison, the extra large collar can be worn up, down, or buttoned half way, tight to the neck.



Unlike most Tender jackets, which have a straight cut front, the Two:One jacket has shaped lapels with a large belly, to use the tailor's term.


Legs are cut in one huge piece of fabric, with no side seams and no pockets, but the side is pulled into a large backwards-facing pleat, and stitched into place to form a side pocket.


Adapted from type 130 Tapered Jeans, Dart Back Tapered trousers have no yoke, but a pair of darts set into the waistband throws the shape from the waist into the seat.


The Pleat Pocket Shirt is cut with a large front panel pleated into the yoke to form a large hand-warmer pocket.



The Two Birds Shirt creates two pockets with one line of pocket stitching.



The Frock Shirt is a combination of a three-pocket work shirt and a tailored frock coat.





The Stole Pocket Butterfly shirt has long panel pockets sewn to the fronts and caught into the shoulder seam, recalling the embroidered liturgical vestments worn by Christian priests and bishops.













A plastron is a chest covering which sits over a lower layer. The same term is used to describe a fencer's chest pad, an armoured breastplate, and a tortoise's belly.





The Frock Shirt is a combination of a three-pocket work shirt and a tailored frock coat.





The Tender Stock is based on an equestrian stock- the horse's hoof binding which evolved to become the modern tie.



The Rake Hat is worn at a raked angle, slightly on the side of the head, but is also the sort of cap which Tom Rakewell might have worn in Hogarth's etchings had he been born two centuries later.














































