
Logwood, or bloodwood, is a tree that is native to the West Indies and South America. When the ground heartwood is soaked in water it makes a blood red liquid which can be used as an indicator solution, changing colour depending on what is added to it. Used as a dye it can produce a range of colours from black and purple to a delicate fawn.
Aztec and Mayan cultures used logwood for centuries, and it was highly prized when it was first brought to Europe by the Spanish in the 15th Century. In the 1570s Elizabeth I ordered privateers to seize Spanish logwood cargoes, escalating hostilities between the two countries and leading, in 1588, to the sinking of the Spanish Armada.
Samuel Pepys’ ‘best black cloth suit’ worn in the 1660s would have been dyed with logwood.
The 904 jacket follows the season's experiments with cross cutting: the pattern is laid sideways across the denim fabric, which governs the length of the body and sleeves, which both finish with horizontal selvage lines.

Based on a Boy Scouts of America uniform jacket from the textiles collection at University of Wisconsin-Madison, the extra large collar can be worn up, down, or buttoned half way, tight to the neck.


Legs are cut in one huge piece of fabric, with no side seams and no pockets, but the side is pulled into a large backwards-facing pleat, and stitched into place to form a side pocket.

Split Back Jeans are cut straight, with a very high waist. They hark back to the original research in 2010 for Tender's first jeans, adapted from vintage British Rail uniform trousers.

Slim jeans with a high rise, slim seat and gently tapered leg.

The Pleat Pocket Shirt is cut with a large front panel pleated into the yoke to form a large hand-warmer pocket.

The Two Birds Shirt creates two pockets with one line of pocket stitching.

The Frock Shirt is a combination of a three-pocket work shirt and a tailored frock coat.


The Bound Edge Flipped Collar Shirt was and experimental tangent on the way to developing the 468 Flipped Collar Shirt. The entire edge of the shirt, including the entire collar, is bound in a continuous sweep of ecru cotton bias binding.

The Tail Shirt was the first Tender button-down shirt, with deep scooped hems and large patch pockets sewn into the side seams.

The Pullover Split Tail Shirt is adapted from the fully buttoned Split Tail Shirt, but with a single panel front opened to the chest with a long placket.


The Tesseract Shirt is named for the geometric concept of a four-dimensional cube, where the faces fold in on themselves to form new cubic shapes. The shirt front panels are cut long then folded back in a zigzag to form a large pocket reaching from the front opening to the side seam.












































