INDIGO
Indigo has a rich history within work clothes and uniforms. Because the dye needs to oxidise to turn blue, only the outer surface of indigo dyed yarn holds colour. When the fabric rubs against other surfaces during wear, the lower layers of undyed fibre are exposed, giving worn indigo fabrics their characteristic contrasting white and blue fades.
Tender’s 16oz blue-line selvage denim is produced in Japan from ring-spun unbleached American cotton, rope dyed with 25 dips of pure indigo. Complementing this fabric, the same indigo warp yarn is used to make smaller runs of original fabrics in the UK.
Cross Weave denims are refreshed by weaving at right-angles to a normal construction- the indigo yarn is used as the weft (across the fabric) rather than the more usual warp (along the length of the fabric). As the weaving setups used here do not follow normal denim practices, garments cut from these cloths will develop unique character as they are are worn and washed – even more than a standard denim.
Because it has not been pre-skewed, indigo yarn used for knitted garments unwinds with washing, causing the clothing to twist like a well worn pair of jeans.
Scroll down for products made with this indigo yarn
TYPE 904 CROSS CUT JEANS JACKET
The 904 jacket follows the season's experiments with cross cutting: the pattern is laid sideways across the denim fabric, which governs the length of the body and sleeves, which both finish with horizontal selvage lines.
TYPE 128 STRAIGHT JEANS
Straight Jeans are a distillation of what a pair of Tender jeans should be. There is no yoke and no shaping in the side seams- the outside seam is a straight selvage line all the way up to the waistband.
TYPE 102 CROSS CUT SHORT JEANS
These shorts are cut on the Type 132 Wide Jeans pattern, but, following the season's experiments with cross cutting, the pattern is laid sideways across the denim fabric.
TYPE 916 COMMON COAT
The Common Coat is Tender's first lined and faced revere jacket. Rather than aping a fully tailored garment, the manufacture remains true to the idea of understandable construction.
TYPE 131 LOST JEANS
Recut 'Lost' jeans from 2011. 130s with a slightly straighter lower leg, but not quite the full straight wide leg of 132s.
TYPE 130 TAPERED JEANS
High waist jeans with a generous seat and thigh, and a tapered leg.
TYPE 136 OXFORD JEANS
High waist extra wide jeans with a generous seat and thigh, and a very roomy straight leg.
TYPE 125 HIGH STRAIGHT JEANS
Straight leg jeans with an extra high rise and a generous seat and thigh.
TYPE 122 PLEAT BACK JEANS
Based on the 132 jeans pattern, 122 jeans do not have back pockets or a back yoke- the seat is shaped by two 'English' pleats, facing towards the middle.
TYPE 156 SPLIT BACK JEANS
Split Back Jeans are cut straight, with a very high waist. They hark back to the original research in 2010 for Tender's first jeans, adapted from vintage British Rail uniform trousers.
WORKING TAKEOUT BAG
Construction taken from vernacular US Chinese restaurant takeout boxes.
WORKING SLACK JEAN
Working's denim interpretation of the Slack Pant, translating the dual side seam through to denim, with patch pockets, olive green herringbone twill pocket bags, and concealed pockets at each hip.
