
Indigo has a rich history within work clothes and uniforms. Because the dye needs to oxidise to turn blue, only the outer surface of indigo dyed yarn holds colour. When the fabric rubs against other surfaces during wear, the lower layers of undyed fibre are exposed, giving worn indigo fabrics their characteristic contrasting white and blue fades.
Tender’s 16oz blue-line selvage denim is produced in Japan from ring-spun unbleached American cotton, rope dyed with 25 dips of pure indigo. Complementing this fabric, the same indigo warp yarn is used to make smaller runs of original fabrics in the UK.
Cross Weave denims are refreshed by weaving at right-angles to a normal construction- the indigo yarn is used as the weft (across the fabric) rather than the more usual warp (along the length of the fabric). As the weaving setups used here do not follow normal denim practices, garments cut from these cloths will develop unique character as they are are worn and washed – even more than a standard denim.
Because it has not been pre-skewed, indigo yarn used for knitted garments unwinds with washing, causing the clothing to twist like a well worn pair of jeans.
The 904 jacket follows the season's experiments with cross cutting: the pattern is laid sideways across the denim fabric, which governs the length of the body and sleeves, which both finish with horizontal selvage lines.


Design influenced by US Navy deck jackets, Schott ‘Perfecto’ motorcycle jackets and cold weather flap front overcoats.

This piece of art is painted by our friend Jason Jägel directly on to a Working SKEWed Reversible Denim Pullover.

The first Tender jacket, cut with yokes grown on to the back panel, so that the shoulder is seamless and cut on the bias, for a particularly comfortable fit over time.

The Crossover Studio Apron is cut shorter than a standard apron, finishing at the hips, and keeping a shirt clean without constricting the legs.

The Common Coat is Tender's first lined and faced revere jacket. Rather than aping a fully tailored garment, the manufacture remains true to the idea of understandable construction.

To shape and stiffen the shoulders, the fronts and backs of the Dart Shoulder Jacket are cut in a single, straight, piece, which is darted at an angle where a shoulder seam normally would be.

The Floor shirt is an edited interpretation of a factory overshirt, with large hand pockets and wide sleeves. The stitching at the shoulders appears to make a traditional seamed split yoke, but in fact it shows how the front and back panels overlap, forming a double thickness at the shoulders without any additional seams.

The Gambeson Lined Shirt Coat takes its name from the mediaeval long quilted garment worn underneath, or instead of, metal armour. Each panel is fully lined with cotton casement and quilted in a single V stitch line from one corner to the other.


The Turvy Compass Pocket Jacket is based on the Compass Pocket Shirt, spun around by 90° so that the tails join at the front and back of the jacket, and the large curved pockets sit all the way across each side of the body.

The Zoetrope Coat is cut from just five pieces of cloth- the front of each body panel is folded at an angle into a zigzag pleat radiating from the neck, which is stitched down with an opening to be used as a pocket.



The Janus Shirt has two large patch pockets sewn onto the outside of the garment, each divided with a stitch across the centre into a lower hand-warmer and an upper storage pocket.












































