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Welcome to the Tender Stores. Orders are charged in US$ and are dispatched from Pennsylvania USA.
Please contact us with any questions.
Apart from Japanese selvage denim, fabrics are woven in the UK and USA, and are either custom-woven to original designs or adopted from industrial applications.
All the fibres used are natural cotton, wool, or bast (from flax and similar plant stems), and fabrics are generally cut raw, or loom-state. This means that the cloths are not preshrunk or given standard finishing processes after weaving. The clothes have to be made up large, and are shrunk to their final size either with a rinse, or during garment dyeing. Shrinking the fabric on the garment, rather than as a flat textile, gives the clothes life and three dimensional character which is not achieved with a finished cloth. ‘Unborn’ clothes are sold in their original oversized form, before being washed- they will shrink to size and come to life with their first laundering or soak.
Many of the fabrics are cross-woven, meaning that the design is introduced into the weft (cross) yarn, rather than putting it into the warp (length). This is a more labour intensive weaving process, but allows for greater flexibility in design, as very short lengths of different patterns can be woven onto the same warp, and it generates unusual twill patterns which would not be produced with a normally woven cloth.
Based on a Boy Scouts of America uniform jacket from the textiles collection at University of Wisconsin-Madison, the extra large collar can be worn up, down, or buttoned half way, tight to the neck.
Unlike most Tender jackets, which have a straight cut front, the Two:One jacket has shaped lapels with a large belly, to use the tailor's term.
The Edited Jeans Jacket is a simplified version of the Type 901 Pleat Pocket Jeans Jacket, cut straight with a centre back seam.
The Crossover Studio Apron is cut shorter than a standard apron, finishing at the hips, and keeping a shirt clean without constricting the legs.
The Common Coat is Tender's first lined and faced revere jacket. Rather than aping a fully tailored garment, the manufacture remains true to the idea of understandable construction.
To shape and stiffen the shoulders, the fronts and backs of the Dart Shoulder Jacket are cut in a single, straight, piece, which is darted at an angle where a shoulder seam normally would be.
The Floor shirt is an edited interpretation of a factory overshirt, with large hand pockets and wide sleeves. The stitching at the shoulders appears to make a traditional seamed split yoke, but in fact it shows how the front and back panels overlap, forming a double thickness at the shoulders without any additional seams.
The Double Breasted Common Coat is a wider-wrap version of the Type 916 Common Coat.
The panels for Lobster Tail Jackets are all individually lined and bias-bound, before assembling with flat lapped seams.
The Double Breasted Split Back Coat is cut with a doubled front wrap and no side seams, swooping up to a split at the centre back. Sleeves are put in upside down and seamed into the shoulder.
The Gambeson Lined Shirt Coat takes its name from the mediaeval long quilted garment worn underneath, or instead of, metal armour. Each panel is fully lined with cotton casement and quilted in a single V stitch line from one corner to the other.
The Turvy Compass Pocket Jacket is based on the Compass Pocket Shirt, spun around by 90° so that the tails join at the front and back of the jacket, and the large curved pockets sit all the way across each side of the body.
