Woven in England and rinse washed or dyed with traditional dyes, the ecru cotton warp is pulled from the back of the cloth to the front, forming a series of twisting ridges which look like chain links and creating a vertical corded rib on the face of the fabric. The reverse side has corresponding dimples where the warp is pulled through, which can be seen on shirt pockets where the fabric is folded up at the hem.

The indigo version of this fabric shows the construction particularly clearly, as the ecru warp is pulled up to form the chain cords, while the Japanese 25-dip rope-dyed indigo weft yarn sits behind, forming a deep blue base to the fabric, which will fade and soften beautifully with wear.