Cotton Molleton starts as the cotton canvas base Unfinished Cotton Molleton, but is heavily raised on carding rollers to create a very soft, felted surface similar to an extremely soft and dense moleskin. Molleton fabric is used industrially to cover the pads used in heat presses for the setting of fine worsted woollens and flannels.

The base fabric is woven in England from ecru cotton or from cotton yarn rope dyed with 25 dips of indigo in Japan.The ecru fabric is either scoured to preshrink it, or piece-dyed black before being raised.The indigo version shows the process of raising particularly beautifully: as the fibres are lifted out of the cloth, the undyed core of the yarn is exposed leaving a subtle repeated pattern in the surface of the fabric.