TYPE 160 PLEAT POCKET BAGS

Legs are cut in one huge piece of fabric, with no side seams and no pockets, but the side is pulled into a large backwards-facing pleat, and stitched into place to form a side pocket.

TYPE 904 CROSS CUT JEANS JACKET

The 904 jacket follows the season's experiments with cross cutting: the pattern is laid sideways across the denim fabric, which governs the length of the body and sleeves, which both finish with horizontal selvage lines.

TYPE 128 STRAIGHT JEANS

Straight Jeans are a distillation of what a pair of Tender jeans should be. There is no yoke and no shaping in the side seams- the outside seam is a straight selvage line all the way up to the waistband.

TYPE 102 CROSS CUT SHORT JEANS

These shorts are cut on the Type 132 Wide Jeans pattern, but, following the season's experiments with cross cutting, the pattern is laid sideways across the denim fabric.

TYPE 417 THREE QUARTER SLEEVE FROCK SHIRT

The Frock Shirt is a combination of a three-pocket work shirt and a tailored frock coat.

TYPE 916 COMMON COAT

The Common Coat is Tender's first lined and faced revere jacket. Rather than aping a fully tailored garment, the manufacture remains true to the idea of understandable construction.    

TYPE 931 SCOUT JACKET

Based on a Boy Scouts of America uniform jacket from the textiles collection at University of Wisconsin-Madison, the extra large collar can be worn up, down, or buttoned half way, tight to the neck.

TYPE 457 FROCK SHIRT

The Frock Shirt is a combination of a three-pocket work shirt and a tailored frock coat.

TYPE 401 PLEAT POCKET SHIRT

The Pleat Pocket Shirt is cut with a large front panel pleated into the yoke to form a large hand-warmer pocket.

TYPE 402 TWO BIRDS SHIRT

The Two Birds Shirt creates two pockets with one line of pocket stitching.

TYPE 131 LOST JEANS

Recut 'Lost' jeans from 2011. 130s with a slightly straighter lower leg, but not quite the full straight wide leg of 132s.

TYPE 130 TAPERED JEANS

High waist jeans with a generous seat and thigh, and a tapered leg.

TYPE 136 OXFORD JEANS

High waist extra wide jeans with a generous seat and thigh, and a very roomy straight leg.

TYPE 125 HIGH STRAIGHT JEANS

Straight leg jeans with an extra high rise and a generous seat and thigh.

TYPE 122 PLEAT BACK JEANS

Based on the 132 jeans pattern, 122 jeans do not have back pockets or a back yoke- the seat is shaped by two 'English' pleats, facing towards the middle.

TYPE 156 SPLIT BACK JEANS

Split Back Jeans are cut straight, with a very high waist. They hark back to the original research in 2010 for Tender's first jeans, adapted from vintage British Rail uniform trousers.

TYPE 006 BANDANA

Bandanas are cut from previous seasons' clothing fabrics, and weaving experiments which never made it into production.

TYPE 467 BOUND EDGE FLIPPED COLLAR SHIRT

The Bound Edge Flipped Collar Shirt was and experimental tangent on the way to developing the 468 Flipped Collar Shirt. The entire edge of the shirt, including the entire collar, is bound in a continuous sweep of ecru cotton bias binding.

TYPE 465 ARGYLE CHEST POCKET SHIRT

The Argyle Chest Pocket Shirt is based on the Millwheel Shirt, with a diagonally angled square chest pocket forming an argyle pattern at the top of the left front panel.

TYPE 469 SHORT SLEEVE FLIPPED COLLAR SHIRT

The collar panel of the Short Sleeve Flipped Collar Shirt, once cut, is flipped upside down and the long side, not the short side, is sewn into the neck of the shirt.

TYPE 531 ELEPHANT EAR BACKPACK

The Elephant Ear backpack is cut from a single piece of heavy fabric bound around the edges with ecru cotton and folded up, with an ear at each side, riveted through to the back with a brass eyelet.

TYPE 808 RAKE HAT

The Rake Hat is worn at a raked angle, slightly on the side of the head, but is also the sort of cap which Tom Rakewell might have worn in Hogarth's etchings had he been born two centuries later.  

TYPE 124 WADER JEANS

Wader jeans have a very high waist, a generous seat, and an easy, wide leg.

TYPE 902 EDITED JEANS JACKET

The Edited Jeans Jacket is a simplified version of the Type 901 Pleat Pocket Jeans Jacket, cut straight with a centre back seam.

TYPE 120 DART BACK TAPERED TROUSERS

Adapted from type 130 Tapered Jeans, Dart Back Tapered trousers have no yoke, but a pair of darts set into the waistband throws the shape from the waist into the seat.

TYPE 918 TWO:ONE BUTTERFLY JACKET

Unlike most Tender jackets, which have a straight cut front, the Two:One jacket has shaped lapels with a large belly, to use the tailor's term.

TYPE 471 PLASTRON SHIRT

A plastron is a chest covering which sits over a lower layer. The same term is used to describe a fencer's chest pad, an armoured breastplate, and a tortoise's belly.

TYPE 439 STOLE POCKET BUTTERFLY SHIRT

The Stole Pocket Butterfly shirt has long panel pockets sewn to the fronts and caught into the shoulder seam, recalling the embroidered liturgical vestments worn by Christian priests and bishops.

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TYPE 156 CUT OFF SPLIT BACK JEANS

Cut off and hemmed just below the knee, Split Back Jeans are cut straight, with a very high waist. They hark back to the original research in 2010 for Tender's first jeans, adapted from vintage British Rail uniform trousers.

TYPE 142 PLEAT BACK SHORTS

Adapted from type 122 Pleat Back Jeans, the seat is shaped by two 'English' pleats, facing towards the middle, and adding roominess for free movement without the structure of seams.

TYPE 756 DONEGAL EDGE RYELAND CREW NECK PULLOVER

The neck binding of the Donegal Edge Ryeland Crew Neck Pullover is knitted from thick, soft Donegal yarn, while the body is fine undyed Ryeland wool. This gives the substance and softness of a much thicker garment around the neck, while being thin enough to wear comfortably under a jacket, or in warmer weather.

TYPE 757 DONEGAL EDGE RYELAND V NECK PULLOVER

The neck binding of the Donegal Edge Ryeland V Neck Pullover is knitted from thick, soft Donegal yarn, while the body is fine undyed Ryeland wool. This gives the substance and softness of a much thicker garment around the neck, while being thin enough to wear comfortably under a jacket, or in warmer weather.

TYPE 758 DONEGAL EDGE RYELAND CARDIGAN

The placket and neck binding of the Donegal Edge Ryeland Cardigan is knitted from thick, soft Donegal yarn, while the body is fine undyed Ryeland wool. This gives the substance and softness of a much thicker garment around the neck, while being thin enough to wear comfortably under a jacket, or in warmer weather.

TYPE 716 ROUND RIB CARDIGAN

The collar and front placket of the Round Rib Cardigan are folded and linked on at full double thickness, forming a pillowy edge to the garment.

TYPE 717 ROUND RIB DIVING PULLOVER

The neck hole of the Diving Pullover is cut round and unusually deep, inspired by the neck of an antique diving suit, attached to a helmet, but also recalling the scooped front of a formal shawl collar waistcoat.

TYPE 718 ROUND RIB CREW NECK PULLOVER

The neck hole of the Crew Neck Pullover is cut is cut round as a wide crew neck, and the double thickness rolled collar fills this in forming a closer fitting neck.

TYPE 532 ELEPHANT EAR SATCHEL

The Elephant Ear satchel is cut from a single piece of heavy cloth bound around the edges with ecru cotton and folded up, with an ear at each side, riveted through to the back with a brass eyelet.

TYPE 533 ELEPHANT EAR POUCH

The Elephant Ear pouch is cut from a single piece of heavy fabric bound around the edges with ecru cotton and folded up, with an ear at each side, riveted through to the back with a brass eyelet.

TYPE 900 JACKET

The first Tender jacket, cut with yokes grown on to the back panel, so that the shoulder is seamless and cut on the bias, for a particularly comfortable fit over time.

TYPE 650 CROSSOVER STUDIO APRON

The Crossover Studio Apron is cut shorter than a standard apron, finishing at the hips, and keeping a shirt clean without constricting the legs.

TYPE 468 FLIPPED COLLAR SHIRT

The collar panel of the Flipped Collar Shirt, once cut, is flipped upside down and the long side, not the short side, is sewn into the neck of the shirt.

TYPE 980 DART SHOULDER JACKET

To shape and stiffen the shoulders, the fronts and backs of the Dart Shoulder Jacket are cut in a single, straight, piece, which is darted at an angle where a shoulder seam normally would be.

TYPE 490 FLOOR SHIRT

The Floor shirt is an edited interpretation of a factory overshirt, with large hand pockets and wide sleeves. The stitching at the shoulders appears to make a traditional seamed split yoke, but in fact it shows how the front and back panels overlap, forming a double thickness at the shoulders without any additional seams.

TYPE 419 DOUBLE BREASTED PULLOVER HOODIE

The Double Breasted Pullover Hoodie is a cut-down version of the 499 Dress Shirt, with a large hood cut from the fabric saved from removing the longer shirt tail.

TYPE 463 ARGYLE HAND POCKET SHIRT

The Argyle Hand Pocket Shirt is based on the Millwheel Shirt, with diagonally angled square hand-warmer pockets forming an argyle pattern at the bottoms of the front panels.

TYPE 464 WEBBING FLY SHIRT

The three body panels for the Webbing Fly Shirt are assembled, with the sleeves, and then bias bound all round in one pass, starting and ending underneath the collar, which is added at the end.

TYPE 422 SQUARE TAIL SHIRT

The Square Tail Shirt is a straight cut version of the original Tail Shirt, with a single chest pocket shaped after the shirt of an early Tender customer and friend, who cut a chest pocket out of the fabric of the original side pockets.

WEAVER'S STOCK TYPE WS430 BUTTERFLY SHIRT

The Weaver's Stock Butterfly Shirt is a tailored adaptation of the mainline Type 430 Butterfly Shirt, and is single-needle sewn with french seams.